Go Surf - ISBN:0756626285

Go Surf

Date: 23 May 2011, 08:11

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There is nothing like surfing. Breaking waves have always drawn mesmerized observers, and the art of riding them is a physical expression of that fascination. It involves bravery, endurance, and athleticism, but somehow it transcends the boundaries of sport in its expression of grace, beauty, and some intangible sense of rhythmic perfection.
Once you start surfing and you find yourself sitting out at sea, turning and stroking for a wave, you are placing yourself in the path of an irresistible force and the rest of your surfing life will be spent learning how to harness that energy most successfully. Sometimes dangerous, often violent, as the water throws you around without mercy, you will find that it is at other times peaceful, almost spiritual, and always sensational.
After the very first time you take to the waves—tired, frustrated, sore in muscles you didn’t know existed—you’ll already be looking forward to your next session, most likely staring out to sea with a grin, water dripping from your nose, and feeling wonderfully alive. This is your first dose of “surf stoke” and in all likelihood, it will never leave you.
Happy surfing!

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