Dynamics of surface waves in coastal waters, wave-current-bottom interactions - ISBN:7040250616

Dynamics of surface waves in coastal waters, wave-current-bottom interactions

Date: 23 May 2011, 18:42

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Wave motion surrounds us-from the most secret, profound waves of quantuml mechanics to the grand waves of the ocean surfaceJ Ocean waves, or water waves, may be divided into deep- and shallow- water (coastal) waves. From an advance pomt of VIew, coastal waves are not studIed a~ thoroughly as deep-water waves due to a complIcated seabed topography on the former but not on the latter. Therefore, in conjunction with the effects of ubiquij tous ambient currents, wave-current-bottom interactions make up the most funj damental, widespread dynamical mechanism in coastal waters manifesting itselfj as refraction, diffraction, scattering, and resonant wave interactions involved in energy exchanges.

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